Tankless water heaters have become very popular lately for several good reasons. Tankless hot water heaters are more energy efficient than traditional units because they heat water as it is used, rather than heating and reheating water in a storage tank. They also take up significantly less physical space, as they do not have a bulky storage tank. But what kind is going to be right for your home and what should you know about them?
This is the first generation of tankless unit. These units use a heat exchanger to heat your water on-demand, and reach an Efficiency Factor (EF) of .82-.85. This technology has been in use in Europe and Japan for decades and is well-proven. The advantage of this type of unit is in reliability in that they are established products with few manufacturing issues. Some of the drawbacks of non-condensing units include hot exhaust, which means you have to install (expensive) stainless steel venting, and lower energy efficiency – in particular, the efficiency of these units drop when you use lots of hot water in short draws (i.e. washing your hands).
Condensing units are the second generation of tankless water heaters. After a primary heat exchanger, these units use a second heat exchanger, which reuses the heat from your exhaust to further heat the water. This results in an increased efficiency of 92-94%. The benefit of cooler exhaust is that these units can be vented using (inexpensive) PVC, while the drawbacks included a higher unit cost and, similar to non-condensing units, a lower efficiency for short water draws.
Condensing hybrid units are the third generation of tankless water heaters and were pioneered in the United States. These heaters incorporate a small – between 1 liter and 2-gallon – holding tank. This small holding tank keeps a reservoir of hot water, eliminating lower efficiency for short draws, meaning these water heaters achieve a true EF of .92-.96. A recent study by the Gas Technology Institute measured real life efficiency of condensing hybrid tankless water heaters and found the units consistently operated at 94% efficiency with little to no degradation due to short draws.
These units can also be vented in PVC which is less expensive. In some cases, the units also addressed “cold water sandwich” issues and pressure fluctuations that sometimes occurred with first and second-generation models. There may also be slightly less lag in the time it takes to deliver hot water to the tap or appliance. One of the drawbacks (as of writing) of this technology is that because it’s newer, most models are manufactured by smaller companies. In some cases, there have been manufacturing-quality and warranty issues with these units. Product reliability is improving but it’s important to be careful about the brand you purchase.
Our expertise and commitment to customer satisfaction make us the leading HVAC company in Southern California. To learn more about our equipment, services, and protection plan, book an appointment online or call 888-277-0415.
If you've ever seen a brown haze of pollution hanging over your city, your most likely response may be, "Ugh. How can I avoid breathing that stuff?" But let's face it, even if you know it's a bad air day, you probably need to grab some sunshine, get in an outdoor run, or get to work.
Polluted air contains particulate matter, lead, ozone, nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide, and sulfur dioxide -- all of which can cause problems in people with allergies or asthma. Even if pollution is low, airborne pollen and mold can make a trip outdoors particularly daunting for people with respiratory conditions.
The first step toward protecting your lungs is to know your city or town. More than 115 million people nationwide still live in counties with pollution levels considered potentially harmful to their health.
Air quality varies widely around the United States. Ozone, for instance -- which can pose a major problem for asthmatics -- tends to be more prevalent in urban areas like Los Angeles, though it can be found in suburban and rural areas as well. If you live in Fargo, North Dakota -- one of the cities with the cleanest air in the nation -- you are likely to breathe easier than if you live in Los Angeles, which has the highest ozone levels in the country.
Local weather stations often provide this information on their websites, and radio stations typically give ozone alerts. In addition, many websites can tell you if pollutants, ozone, or pollen counts are high in your area on any given day.
However, it's not just pollen or air pollution that can trigger problems. Dr. Michael Benninger, M.D., the chairman of the Head and Neck Institute at the Cleveland Clinic, in Ohio, says changes in barometric pressure and temperature can also spell trouble for people with allergies to pollen and mold, people with severe sinus symptoms, and even people without allergies.
Once you've figured out what factors are most likely to pose a problem (usually by trial and error, or testing for allergies), and know the conditions in your area, there are several things you can do to cope.
One option is to reduce excessive exposure on days that might trigger symptoms. For example, Benninger recommends avoiding areas where pollen, mold, or other allergens are high. If you know that grass and trees are a problem, don't spend the day in a lush, tree-filled park; if you have to mow your lawn, wear a mask with a filter to reduce exposure to grass. Staying indoors with the windows closed and the air-conditioning on is also helpful, Benninger says.
Flowers are blooming, the grass is green and lush, and trees are bursting with new leaves… Don’t you just love this time of year?
Not so much if you have allergies.
When the pollen count is out of control, all you want to do is hide in an air-conditioned room until fall. Unfortunately, that probably won’t help.
You might think your air conditioning system will filter out all those nasty allergens from the air, but without the right air filters for allergies, you’ll still be sniffling and sneezing your way through the season.
And it’s not just pollen you need to worry about! The summer heat and humidity make the conditions ripe for the growth of mold and mildew, which can also bring on allergy symptoms.
Learn the facts about choosing the right air filters for allergies, as well as other HVAC maintenance tips that can reduce your suffering this season.
Many people mistakenly believe that the air filters in furnaces and air conditioners keep dust and allergens out of the air.
That’s not what HVAC filters are designed to do. Their purpose is to keep dust out of the equipment to prevent damage to the system and keep it running efficiently.
While ordinary furnace and ac filters do help to remove some dust from the air (when changed regularly!), they do little to trap the microscopic particles that cause the sneezing and wheezing of allergy season.
That’s why you need special air filters for allergies that are designed to stop those tiny particles.
Those paper filters ordinarily used in your furnace and air conditioner are designed to trap large particles like dust that can accumulate on the motor and fans and reduce efficiency. However, particles like mold, bacteria, and certain types of pollen are much smaller in size, so they slip right through the fibers of those regular filters.
That means they get circulated through your ductwork and blown back into your space.
Air filters for allergies are designed to block much smaller particles, so your air stays cleaner. They are called “high energy particulate air filters” or more commonly, HEPA filters.
Because HEPA filters are made from densely packed layers of glass fibers instead of paper, the best ones can trap more than 99 percent of pollen, dust and smoke particles and keep them out of the air you breathe every day.
Unfortunately, it’s not good enough just to look for a HEPA filter for your air conditioner. To get the best results, you need to check the MERV ratings.
HVAC HEPA air filters for allergies are rated on how well they block particles of different sizes. The rating system is called the minimum efficiency reporting system, or MERV. The ratings range from MERV 1 to MERV 12, with the higher number indicating filters that can remove the smallest particles, including many species of pollen.
Your HVAC service professional can help you get and install the best MERV-rated filter for your air conditioning and heating systems. Ideally you want to choose a MERV rating of 10 or higher, which are most effective at blocking the particles that cause allergy symptoms.
HEPA air filters for allergies need to be changed more frequently than ordinary paper HVAC filters, especially during high pollen season.
That means changing them at least every other month, and possibly more often depending on your location. An HVAC service expert can advise you on what’s recommended for your equipment and your area.
Using the right air filters for allergies does help to reduce the allergens in the air, but don’t forget about cleaning it from the rest of your HVAC system. If you haven’t had your air conditioning system maintained at least once every year, you’ve likely got quite a bit of buildup on the blower fans and in your ductwork.
Did you know that the air you breathe cycles through your HVAC system about 5 to 7 times each day? If you have not been using the right HEPA air filters for allergies AND not maintaining your air conditioning system, years’ worth of dust, pollen and even mold spores are sitting in on your equipment and in your ducts right now.
Check out our list of 31 HVAC tips to learn about even more air quality and AC tips for your home!
Our expertise and commitment to customer satisfaction make us the leading HVAC company in Southern California. To learn more about our equipment, services, and protection plan, book an appointment online or call 888-277-0415.
Despite our love of its many benefits, the operation of a heating and cooling unit typically remains a mystery, even to its greatest fans. For various reasons, not the least of which are comfort, indoor air quality and ventilation, homeowners are often left to ponder how their system works at bringing cool air into their home…. Does it pull in air from the outside for distribution? Surprisingly enough, that’s not really how it works…
In short, no. Though in split system air conditioning design, commonly heat pumps, part of your system is located outside your home, it does not take in outside air. Outside air is brought into the system from an intake which is generally located by your furnace, but is occasionally its own, separate system. Its main operational purpose of cooling the air in your home is not achieved by moving cool air inside, but by moving unwanted heat out. How does it accomplish this?
To remove the heat from your home, your air conditioner pumps it outside via the heat pump, which can operate in either direction… Moving heat (or thermal energy) outside in the summer, and inside in the winter. How does it manage to capture and release this heat? The air conditioner pump, called the compressor, sucks warm air out of your home, removing it outside with the help of a special fluid, refrigerant. Encased in a closed metal loop, this refrigerant offers a shuttle for this heat exchange.
Called the refrigeration cycle, the thermodynamics of this heat exchange include a series of changes in temperature, pressure, and state (liquid/vapor) to remove this heat from your home. This cycle has four stages:
When the refrigerant passes back into the house, it passes through a narrow valve into the evaporator, which is kept at low pressure, meaning when the refrigerant flows in, it quickly expands. This expansion causes the fluid to become very cold. A fan then blows air on it, distributing it via ductwork through your home. This is also part of the heat transference process, because as the cooled air is distributed, air blown onto the evaporator (from return ducts) again transfers heat into the fluid. The refrigerant is then pumped back to the condenser, beginning the cycle again.
That depends upon your needs. Additional ventilation, installed by a trusted air conditioning company, can lower your utility bills by reducing your cooling needs, or improve air quality. The style and function of such ventilation will vary based upon your home’s age and construction, and your family’s health and comfort needs.
Central air conditioning systems are designed to suit the size of your home and the amount of air it needs to cool or heat. The size of the specific AC unit, the condenser, is chosen to be efficient for 98% of the typical high temperatures in your area (climate). So for that 2% extreme, like we are having this summer in Palm Desert and Palm Springs, your AC system may actually be undersized. But this is by design. Otherwise, if you went with a larger system that had no trouble pumping the volumes of cool air needed during these extremely hot days, your system would be quite inefficient 98% of the time. And that’s really, almost all the time – not a good thing.
The larger system costs more to install and it consumes more energy to run, all costing you more money. Because it pumps more air volume it cools the house much faster. You might think this was a good thing but instead it means the system is running through off and on cycles at a much higher rate. The shorter cooling cycles means it is not quite running long enough to be pulling humidity out of your home. Removing humidity is part of how an air conditioner works. The condensing coil condenses water out of the air and the heat exchange process during that activity is what creates the cooler air. Warmer air and moisture is then exited from your home. Dryer air, even when warmer, is more comfortable for the human body as it allows our own biological air conditioner, our sweat, to be more efficient. Not removing sufficient humidity from your home could also lead to mold problems.
These are some of the reasons an over-sized AC system is just an all around bad idea. But you can still make the system you have work for you in these 100+ degree conditions.
To make it easier for your AC system to reliably pump out cool air when it’s over 100 degrees outside you need to give it some help.
In a nutshell it comes down to reducing heat gains in the home. Some of the basics are;
Anything you can do to keep the house stay cooler, even a little bit, means the AC does not need to be running as long for each cooling cycle.
Your central air system should be getting a maintenance check-up at least once a year. Ideally the AC unit should be checked before peak demand during Palm Desert's summer heat, to ensure it’s running at its best when you need it most. It will be running hard through these multiple 100+ degrees days and may even need a check-up later on after all that heavy use.
Our expertise and commitment to customer satisfaction make us the leading HVAC company in Southern California. To learn more about our equipment, services, and protection plan, book an appointment online or call 888-277-0415.
During sweltering summer days air conditioning can seem like it is a necessity. While a good air conditioner can make your rental unit a much more comfortable place to be during the summer is it legally required in California?
Rental houses and apartments in California must comply with habitability requirements. This includes having plumbing, heating, electrical, and gas systems in good working order. A cooling unit isn’t listed as a requirement of habitability, so a landlord does not have to provide one. The rental unit must receive adequate ventilation, however.
Unless a fan or other type of ventilation system is installed in the rental unit, most rooms require a window. The minimum window size usually measures 20 inches by 24 inches and the window must open at least halfway.
Even though landlords don’t face a requirement to provide an air conditioner in a rental house or apartment, many landlords provide a cooling unit to increase the desirability of the property. In some areas of California with low humidity, landlords install an evaporative or swamp cooler to meet cooling needs. Tenants should ask about the availability of a working cooling system before they decide to rent the house or apartment.
If the landlord provided an operable air conditioning system in the rental house or apartment when the tenants moved in, the tenants can expect the landlord to maintain the air conditioning system, keeping it in good working order. If the system stops working through no fault of the tenants, the landlord is responsible for repairing or replacing the air conditioning system. On the other hand, if the tenants caused the failure of the air conditioning system, they pay the cost of AC repair.
A phone call followed by a written statement notifies the landlord of a non-functioning air conditioning system. You then must give the landlord a reasonable period – around 14 days to a month – to make the repairs. If the landlord refuses to fix your broken air conditioning unit, you may consider using the “repair and deduct” remedy. With this remedy, you pay to fix the air conditioner and deduct the cost from the rent. However, the repair cost can’t exceed one month’s rent and you can only use this remedy once a year.
Now while this may not sound like good news exactly it is also not the worst news. If your landlord had an air conditioning system installed and working at the time you moved in it is their responsibility to maintain it. As it is not legally required however it would be in a renter’s best interest to make sure that there is a functioning air conditioning system even when moving in in the winter time.
It is simple enough to check and only takes a few minutes. Have someone with you when looking at the property turn the thermostat to cooling mode and see if the outdoor condensing unit comes on and runs relatively quietly listen for vibration specifically which could indicate a problem. Within a few minutes, cool air should come out of the vents, this would indicate that the air conditioning was in “working order” upon your move-in date.
Mini splits are a relative newcomer to the North American HVAC market, however they are quickly rising to the top as consumers realize what can be offered with these units. In particular Daikin is causing a lot of the buzz and for good reason.
In what has become a cutthroat competition for who can make units with the highest SEER rating for the lowest cost Daikin is outperforming the competition. Inverter Technology
“Air conditioner compressors are driven by motor, and motor rotation speed depends on power supply frequency. An inverter modulates power supply frequency to control motor rotation speed. Inverters stabilize temperature by adjusting compressor operation according to load to eliminate waste and save energy.”
With an introductory unit having a 17 SEER rating and the top of the line units coming in at 24.5 SEER. Daikin has managed to reach every level of consumer with one type of unit or another.
There is a Daikin unit for your application. With a massive market presence comes great responsibility. Daikin has made units for virtually every application you may run into. We’ll go over just a few.
These are the most common type of indoor Daikin equipment seen in the marketplace currently. They mount on the wall usually within 18 inches of the ceiling and have a vent that blows cool or warm air out of the bottom directed into the room they are located in. These units also have an optional room occupancy sensor which means the unit will compensate when people are in the room for the additional heat load.
Let’s say you have two bedrooms next to each other. You don’t really like the look of the high wall head and would like to use a single unit to heat both rooms. There is an option for that, this type of unit goes above the ceiling. Depending on the model a number of ducted runs can be pulled from the unit allowing you to heat and cool multiple rooms with a single unit you’ll never see.
Ceiling Mounted Daikin heads have actually been used in tiny homes as well as conventional homes. The reason for this is they are relatively low profile. Meaning they do not require a lot of room above them to operate correctly. The main application is large (or small) rooms where high wall heads are not an option. These units move air in four directions out from the ceiling and perform exceedingly well in air conditioning mode.
Who knew HVAC could be sexy? A new line of Daikin products is due out next month offering a range of colors for the indoor units. That way, consumers can choose a color scheme that goes with their home.
The summer temperatures in Palm Desert, California are here and it's HOT outside. Many people have received their second or third summer electric bills – and they're literally breaking out in a sweat over the amount due!
When it's about 110 degrees in Palm Desert, Palm Springs, or Indio, California, it's hot enough for anyone and anything. Learn the best way for you to set your thermostat this summer – even if it's not exactly what you want to hear or you prefer a relatively chilly indoor air temperature.
Making “the case” for a warmer indoor air temperature during the summer rests on three truisms:
The California Energy Commission recommends that homeowners set their thermostat to 78 degrees when they're home and 85 degrees when they're away from home during the summer. Note that this is a better strategy than turning off your air conditioner on 100-degree days – so that you don't return home to indoor air that feels like a sauna, and so that your air conditioner won't have to run as long to cool your home upon your return.
The center's advice is based on the U.S. Department of Energy's often repeated mantra about thermostat controls and saving energy: when you can adjust your thermostat by between 10 and 15 degrees for eight hours at a stretch – higher during the summer and lower during the winter – you can save between 5 and 15 percent on your utility bill. This one adjustment can add up to considerable savings, though it might mean sticking with a minimalist wardrobe during the summer (and reaching for a sweater during the winter).
Admittedly, some people simply do not tolerate warm weather well. And some people suffer from health issues that make a cool indoor air temperature an absolute necessity.
Be sure to make allowances for such conditions and take proactive measures to help you stay cool indoors with or without air conditioning -- and even before the temperature soars to three digits outdoors:
When it's 100 degrees outdoors, you're likely to feel the heat indoors. Ensuring that your home is properly sealed and insulated against air leaks will mitigate your discomfort – and help keep your utility bills in check.
Our expertise and commitment to customer satisfaction make us the leading HVAC company in Southern California. To learn more about our equipment, services, and protection plan, book an appointment online or call 888-277-0415.
A furnace only heats the home. A heat can you buy valium in new york without prescription pump heats or cools according to the thermostat setting. Which is the better option? It depends on several factors and in the end only you can decide. But here's what you should know before making a choice.
A heat pump is basically an air conditioner with a heating component. Air source heat pumps remove heat from the air and use it to heat your home. Ground source heat pumps remove warmth from the ground and use it to heat your home. The appeal of heat pumps is that they heat with more energy efficiency than oil and gas furnaces because they don’t have create heat; they simply transfer it from one place to another. The result is substantial savings on energy use and utility costs.
Not necessarily. It depends on the climate where you live. In regions like Palm Springs, CA where temperatures are usually above 55 degrees, a heat pump is more efficient. If outdoor temperatures routinely go below 40 degrees, a furnace delivers more energy efficiency because it's better equipped to maintain consistent indoor warmth.
Another consideration is that heat pumps can be more expensive than furnaces, and they may cost more to install. Heat pumps have a shorter lifespan than furnaces because they work year round, whereas furnaces operate only in winter. Finally, heat pumps are powered by electricity, which may cost more than the oil or gas used by a furnace.
Before deciding whether you want a furnace or heat pump, find out how much the unit will cost and what your savings will be over time. Remember that whether you choose a furnace or heat pump, it must be properly sized and professionally installed. An honest and reputable contractor can help you examine the pros and cons in a straightforward way.
How To Ventilate Your HomeMost home heating and cooling systems, including forced air heating systems, do not mechanically bring fresh air into the house. Opening windows and doors, operating window or attic fans, when the weather permits, or running a window air conditioner with the vent control open increases the outdoor ventilation rate. Local bathroom or kitchen fans that exhaust outdoors remove contaminants directly from the room where the fan is located and increase the outdoor air ventilation rate.
It is particularly important to take as many of these steps as possible while you are involved in short-term activities that can generate elevated levels of pollutants — for example, painting, paint stripping, heating with kerosene heaters, cooking, or engaging in maintenance and hobby activities such as welding, soldering, or sanding. You might also choose to do some of these activities outdoors if you can and if the weather permits.
Advanced designs of new homes are starting to feature mechanical systems that bring outdoor air into the home. Some of these designs include energy-efficient heat recovery ventilators (also known as air-to-air heat exchangers).
Ventilation and shading can help control indoor temperatures. Ventilation also helps remove or dilute indoor airborne pollutants coming from indoor sources. This reduces the level of contaminants and improves indoor air quality (IAQ). Carefully evaluate using ventilation to reduce indoor air pollutants where there may be outdoor sources of pollutants, such as smoke or refuse, nearby.
The introduction of outdoor air is one crucial factor in promoting good air quality. Air may enter a home in several different ways, including
Infiltration occurs in all homes to some extent.
Natural ventilation describes air movement through open windows and doors. If used properly natural ventilation can at times help moderate the indoor air temperature, which may become too hot in homes without air-conditioning systems or when power outages or brownouts limit or make the use of air conditioning impossible.
Natural ventilation can also improve indoor air quality by reducing pollutants that are indoors. Examples of natural ventilation are:
Most residential forced air-heating systems and air-conditioning systems do not bring outdoor air into the house mechanically, and infiltration and natural ventilation are relied upon to bring outdoor air into the home. Advanced designs for new homes are starting to add a mechanical feature that brings outdoor air into the home through the HVAC system. Some of these designs include energy efficient heat recovery ventilators to mitigate the cost of cooling and heating this air during the summer and winter.
When adding outside air in order to dilute the pollution within your home is not an option, there are a few other options. HEPA air purifiers which are separate from your homes HVAC system can be effective. If this is not an option many newer homes have an air filter cabinet located on top of or underneath the furnace depending on whether it is an upflow or downflow model, putting a charcoal or other type of particulate filter in can help reduce pollutants within the home.
